We had (of course) booked the owner's cabin, the best accommodation on the boat. It was very comfortable: with twin beds, arm chairs, dressing table and a fridge. There were two forward windows and two starboard and we had self-contained facilities including a full size bath. This was to be our home for the next three nights. Apparently the fridge was a recent addition. It seemed superfluous till we learnt that the saloon bar fridge was not working and the stock of beer was not endless. On the second evening we ordered ten beers and ten sodas to keep our fridge occupied and to ensure we did not run out. Everywhere seemed to have been recently painted. In the cabins and saloon were some colourful silkscreen printed wall hangings.

For supper we ordered the local fish and dined in the saloon, just us and the senior crew. I had read a recent travelogue saying the Captain was forever playing a video of The Titanic but now the TV has gone from the lounge; apparently stolen. The saloon bar did have a WorldScope satellite radio, which brought crystal clear reception of BBC World Service so we caught up on news from a London perspective. Unfortunately the staff were under instructions not to play CDs and tapes which was frustrating as we had new purchases and old favourites that we were keen to play. Our stewards were called James and Wells. They did a fine job fetching cold drinks or teas or coffees, as we desired. Coffee came from the Mzuzu district of Malawi, served in a cafetière. Wonderful!