Week 6 - A Day in Kiwengwa

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Today’s the day that ZIFF goes to the seaside. Well not really, in fact it’s the day the travelling village panorama stops at Kiwengwa. There’s a women’s workshop in the morning, a dhow race at 2pm, a live band (from the Netherlands) at 4pm and then some films just as soon as it gets dark. Predicting this would be a good "knees up" with the villagers I figured now would be a good time to borrow a car, take a few days off, and hang out in the shadows.

I arrived at Shooting Star in time for lunch and soon remembered why I’m so fond of this place. Up above the beach, garden fragrant with tropical flowers, a few chalet rooms – each with a Zanzibari four-poster bed, hot and cold running water, windows with glass and mesh, veranda with a locally-made sun-lounger covered in soft cushions. Palm trees, white beaches, and breakers on the distant reef. Enjoyed a squid lunch and a beer, then an "old bloke’s kip" before wondering along the beach to find ZIFF on location.

While I’d been sleeping heavy rain had fallen. It had soaked the sound equipment and flooded our site: the local football pitch. The Dutch band had dropped out, but curiously it hadn’t affected the local Taarab band that managed to get that badly recorded cassette sound even though they were playing live. Some drama pieces followed – I assume some sort of morality plays – which the crowd enjoyed. The light was fading. Across the pitch some technicians were setting up a screen and projector. Unfortunately it turned out the amplifier was not working so this too was abandoned… the local audience made their way home – seemingly delighted with the entertainment they’d had.

Back at the Shooting Star I enjoyed a fish supper and a lazy evening.


Week 6 - A Day in Kiwengwa

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