We make camp on the second night in a dry river bed. There must be people living nearby because it isn't long before we have visitors bearing gifts and asking for supplies. Shortly after I climb into my sleeping bag, their dogs start barking. After an age, there's no hint and little hope of them stopping so I get up, drag my gear 200m downstream and sleep like a baby.

Thu 25 Mar - Fri 26 Mar
We trek for several more days, often meeting friendly, local, people: black, nomadic, tea-drinking, Muslims; not at all used to tourists. We walk early and late each day resting from 11:00am till 3:00pm in the shade of acacia to avoid the worst of the scorching Sahara sun. We enjoy Hamadhan dust free sunsets and million-star accommodation, sleeping in the sand. On the fourth day we reach a cascade of rock pools around lunchtime. I can't resist and go for a swim. The water is freezing cold but wonderfully refreshing.

In the afternoon we journey on through wadis flanked with oasis gardens bursting with grains, fruit and salad vegetables. At the pretty, mud-brick mountain village of Timia we say goodbye to the camels and their keeper and stay for a few nights at Mousa's other house, with Mousa’s other wife.

Sat 27 Mar
We walk up the wadi to the neighbouring village of Tasalot, passing oasis gardens of grapefruit and oranges. The children are surprised to see a white man but seem to enjoy showing me around their village.

Sun 28 Mar
We negotiate a reasonably priced ride in a four-wheel-drive back to Agadez; this time using the dirt road. Our route is littered with the wreckage of (at least) one of the Paris Dakar rallies.