Heron on the Nile
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  Ab Rahad Ab Rahad Fri 4 Feb 2005  

Fri 4 Feb

Woman on camel
Woman on camel
Friday, the weekend; just what I need. Another day off, and this time a chance to visit the neighbouring town of Ab Rahad. Don't know much about it except I gather there is a large lake - a natural reservoir. Omer the art teacher has offered to take me. He's pleasant company; almost charming, almost cool.

The bus has a separate cab. We sit up in the front with the driver. He enjoys our banter and some of Omer's perfume (Sudanese men are big on perfume). The advantage for me is when we see some women riding camels the driver slows down till I am satisfied I've got that all illusive snap. I've seen the kind of tent affair that women use when travelling by camel in the museum, and only once before in "real life". Last time I failed to get a recognisable photo so now I'm delighted.

Omer in the market
Omer in the market
We arrive at that ghost hour when most men are in the mosque. Omer sheepishly goes off to wash but I think he only catches the tail-end of Friday prayers as he is back within 10 minutes.

We walk around the market. Omer buys a knife in a decorated leather scabbard. It takes further effort (and I suspect costs as much again) to get the knife sharpened. He seems to think it will be useful next time he has to slaughter a sheep.

Around the railway station are many would-be travellers. A train has gone up the line recently so they are expecting to catch it on its return, in the next day or two. Apparently this is safer than taking road transport and the risk of being attacked by hungry Janjaweed rebels. The cost by rail to Nyala is 6000SDD (US$24) and it takes two days.

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