Heron on the Nile
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  Eid Al Adhar Eid al AdHar Thu 20 Jan 2005  

Thu 20 Jan

Before first light there's drumming and chanting in the distance.

Well I guess it's a bit like hearing Christmas is a great feast time in the UK and turning up on Christmas morning in some provincial town expecting to witness "the tradition". The carol singing's long over, the turkey's in the oven and the travelling is largely done for a day or two.

In El Obied the morning is sleepy and slow; it seems quieter than usual. The shopping has been done, the preparations have been made. It is a day for staying in and slaughtering sheep… "What time did the butcher say he would call?" Every occupied household has a sheep, and today every one of them will be slaughtered.

Willing Butcher
Willing Butcher
A few smartly dressed children (3-8 years) go from house to house wishing "Happy Eid" - seemingly for no reward.

The Registrar comes around and checks I have plans for the day. It's sweet of him. I have at least three promises (invitations).

The festival commemorates Abraham sacrificing a ram as a last minute substitute for his son Isaac. Households and their guests amounting to 10, 15 or sometimes 20 people share a sheep on the first day and then visit nearby friends and cousins on the following few days to help each other finish up the leftovers. It's a bit tough if you're a vegetarian. A sheep costs typically 10,000 SDD for a medium to 15,000 SDD for a large one (US$40-60); though busier people with vehicles seem to have found shepherds wanting up to 20,000 SDD. What's important is making the sacrifice. Those [men] who can, do it themselves, everyone else makes an appointment with the butcher to call round and do the honours. Each visit takes an hour - go figure. So everyone suddenly has a lot of meat to eat. You eat what you can and guess what? There's some left over. You visit friends and guess what? They've got some lamb to finish off.

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