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Wed 5 Jan
The BBC's Sudan correspondent Jonah Fisher has been home for Christmas. This morning he is the studio guest on the Network Africa programme. Asked of his impressions of Sudan he ignores the kindness and hospitality, and talks of urgently having to learn Arabic as even the taxi drivers don't speak English. I send an SMS which to my delight they read out just before 8am: "Good morning Jonah. Another lovely day here in Khartoum. Don't forget to mention the Sudanese hospitality. Also, try buses, you'll still need Arabic, but they're far cheaper." He didn't sound too impressed with the idea.Shortly after I leave the house and go down to souq Shuhada for a bus to Khartoum. It is still rush hour and as with the tube trains on London's Northern Line I have to let a few go before I am desperate enough to attempt boarding one. As one bus is still coming to a halt I manage to grab the handrails on both sides of the door. To the disappointment of the crowd behind me I insist we wait till alighting passengers have got off. One determined local pushes past me and disgracefully I pull him back off the bus (I don't know what possessed me). Anyhow, this didn't stop the ladies putting their handbags through open windows to reserve seats, so when I do finally board most of the "free" seats are taken. The passengers are amused at this crazy khawaja not accepting the Sudanese way, and then further entertained when I pay the fare of the queue jumper. On reflection perhaps Jonah has got the better idea?
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