Fri 5 Dec
Ludicrously, we were still obliged to make a 0500 start even though the remaining journey was just 80km. Still the upside was we checked into the lovely lakeside Ghion Hotel in time for a leisurely breakfast on the terrace. Omelettes and coffee were much appreciated.

A street kid called Mike picked me up at the hotel gate and walked alongside me around town. He was different from others and not at all pushy; it seemed he just wanted to converse, to become friends, to be helpful. I found him quiet, thoughtful and likable. Before long he had helped me find the things I wanted and offered to find the original of a cassette I had bought on the bus the day before. He also helpfully tracked down a copy of the subscription only government newspaper that had a report on the Great Ethiopian Run. (The following day he even took my trousers off to the market to be mended for me.)

Sat 6 Dec
Bahir Dar is situated at the southeastern corner of Lake Tana, source of the Blue Nile. Until recently the "Blue Nile Falls" 30km downstream have been one of Ethiopia’s classic tourist attractions. However, since a major hydroelectric power station was built nearby the locals now refer to it as the "Blue Nile Rock"; sadly (for tourists) only 15% of the water goes over the cataract. All the same it was impressive and the force was such that when I went for a swim at the bottom I dared not go too close for fear of being dragged under. Back in town I bought a ferry ticket, some provisions and had a farewell meal with Gertrude.