Fri 17 Oct
Walked along the coast road 6km to the national brewery and Gisenyi harbour. Then caught a minibus, again in torrential rain to Ruhengeri. The town has a wonderful backdrop of the Virunga volcanoes. It is also home of the National Parks authority and office for gorilla permits. Unfortunately there was nothing for the next day so I booked for Sunday and resigned myself to the idea I'll be hanging around for an extra day.

Sat 18 Oct
Wandered around the markets, paid my big money for the gorilla permit and organised transport for the following morning. I wandered along to my favourite eating-place as their TV was usually on European football and I might get the Premiership results. To my surprise they were screening live the English Division 1 game between Ipswich and Stoke, a game that I knew my sister and niece were actually at. It was strange seeing the fading daylight at Portman Rd (1730 kick-off) whilst watching the same game long after sunset tucked in the shadow of Virunga mountains in northwest Rwanda. Ok, with satellite TV it's not technically such a big deal, but it still felt incredible.