Wad Al Bashir camp was established in 1991. In January 2004 the media reported that "bulldozers had reduced about 7,000 homes to rubble". The population in September 2004, according to medical personnel servicing the camp, was about "50,000 people".

I notice many of the local people are black skinned rather than light-brown, Africans rather than Arabs, and most women are not too careful about keeping their heads covered. Whether that's because they're "at home" here or a wilful act of civil disobedience is not clear. I guess these people are mostly Christian living under a Muslim government.

Where the bus terminates there's a church built from proper bricks looking very much like a warehouse with a cross stuck on it. There are a few brick buildings but mostly there are shacks made from rubbish. Curiously the wooden poles used in construction are not trimmed to size so there is a field of flag poles – reminding me slightly of a campsite at a music festival.