At the start of Ramadan the other khawajas are all talking about the fasting and "giving it a go". I could probably last without the food, but to survive the daylight hours without drinking sounds quite foolish to me. It is quite tempting to do some sympathetic fasting, but it is not strictly necessary. There are a few cafes open for Christians and the infirm, and there is always plenty of fresh fruit and salad in the market. I have got into a routine of having watermelon, grapefruit or banana before leaving the house and then not eating again till nightfall.

It is another hot day here; over 40C I imagine. As I crossed the White Nile at around midday there were many locals "swimming"; looked a lovely way of keeping cool. It is Ramadan so most people try and go without food or drink during the day. This means they have a "breakfast" as soon as the post-sunset prayers begin. Actually it is quite socially oriented and feast-like. Families and workers sit on mats outside their homes and shops always keen to invite strangers to join them. A few blocks away refugee kids from the Christian south do not know fasting as an option, the smell of glue suggests they dull their pain in other ways. The other evening I was in an internet cafe when I realised everyone else had left. The guys that run the place were about to break fast and suggested I joined them. I was honoured to accept.

After breakfast people find something to do for a few hours (I came home the other evening about 9pm to find two workmen re-glazing my clothes cupboard). Around midnight they have their main meal. Remarkably, people seem to get up and go to work during the day. The roads are busy with commuter traffic and the fantastic, endless Omdurman market is as lively as ever.

Ramadan is great fun. The tension in the air around dusk and the anticipation of tucking-in just as soon as the call to prayer is heard is wonderful. The people's generosity, richness of food and general over-estimation of amounts reminds me of Christmas time, except here it is everyday for a month.