Wed 5 Nov
The hotel manager came at 0500, there was a lorry leaving shortly. I got up, dressed, packed, and haggled my way on board. We were away by 0530. There were quite a few other passengers in the back, on top of the load but under the tarpaulin pulled over a metal framework. It was very dark, crowded and I was not sure who or what I was sitting on. So this is what it's like to be a smuggled immigrant?

I wanted to be outside the tarpaulin feeling the breeze, watching the sunrise, but I was afraid that wherever I settled I would be there for the whole day. Outside I might get rained on, or scorched by the desert sun so I resisted temptations and stayed put.

After half an hour the sky was lightening, dawn was coming, I could poke my camera through a gap in the canvas but this was still not satisfactory. I climbed out and sat on top. It was breezy and fresh but beautiful. By the time we reached Archers Post the sun had risen and others had joined me. We stopped and waited for some other lorries to join us so as to form a convoy. I nipped off to the loo and when I returned saw a full rainbow arching over the road and our route ahead.

The four lorries kept together, even 1½ hrs later when one had a puncture. Great, this is my chance to stretch my legs and photograph some nearby Samburu boys minding their goats.

By 1130 we stopped at a "town" where we were given 45mins lunch (unexpected bonus especially given the driver was fasting for Ramadan). I ordered "chai" (sweet milky tea) and two chapattis that I ate with peanut butter, but looking around the room I reckon I could have had a feast for less than US$2.