In the afternoon I wondered around Arua town, provincial capital status but not quite fully fledged (these days), for example they are still on a local generator for electricity which rarely runs more than two nights in succession and then only for 5hrs. I bought a locally made shirt and found the fancy embroidery work had actually been done elsewhere (Kampala?) where they have daytime electricity. The tailor in Arua had simply assembled the shirt using a pedal sewing machine.

Power during the day inevitably comes from car batteries, most noisily noticeable are the "video-thèques" teasingly blaring their soundtrack to the passing public. Inside the darkened room, keenly attentive viewers occupy rows of benches, gazing at the various TV screens arranged before them. The main feature is usually world-class sport or an action movie; the audience is predominantly male.

The other thing about Arua is its significance as the bicycle centre. I've never seen a town in Africa so busy with bicycles or a market so full with spare parts; parts of parts even. In rush hours the cars crawl along at the cyclists' pace; there are so many there's no way to pass them.

Having achieved my Arua objective it was time to get down to Murchison Falls National Park.